These series of photos were taken at first light.
I pulled my car up as the sun rose,
on the coastline between two surf breaks -
Winkipop and Boobs, both to the east of the famous Bells Beach.
A pleasant, startling interlude to my drive,
in the search for waves.
I ended up surfing at Jan Juc
in head high waves,
with about ten other surfers.
I spoke to some young grommets
and a man who like myself
has permanent holiday accomodation
on the surf coast, but had to drive
back to Melbourne to be at work by 9am.
We met as I needed help doing up the
zip on my wetsuit.
All my local surfer friends comment
how warm the water is,
on the next 30 degree day
I think we might attack the surf in our boardshorts!
I pulled my car up as the sun rose,
on the coastline between two surf breaks -
Winkipop and Boobs, both to the east of the famous Bells Beach.
A pleasant, startling interlude to my drive,
in the search for waves.
I ended up surfing at Jan Juc
in head high waves,
with about ten other surfers.
I spoke to some young grommets
and a man who like myself
has permanent holiday accomodation
on the surf coast, but had to drive
back to Melbourne to be at work by 9am.
We met as I needed help doing up the
zip on my wetsuit.
All my local surfer friends comment
how warm the water is,
on the next 30 degree day
I think we might attack the surf in our boardshorts!
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